
The Quick Read: Buying now with PMI usually fits a buyer with steady income, healthy cash left after closing, and a plan to stay put for years. Waiting fits a buyer who is close to the 20% line or whose cash would run thin after closing. PMI (private mortgage insurance) protects the lender, costs extra, and can come off later. A bigger down payment cuts leverage and the insurance line, but saving takes time and prices can move while you save.
Side-by-Side
The table below compares the two paths on features that are not price. Your Loan Estimate shows the actual costs for your file.
Conventional payment estimate
The starting figures are an example price at the first-time buyer’s minimum down payment. Replace them with yours.
Editable benchmark: 7.32% as of October 22, 2026 · Freddie Mac 30-year average via FRED®. A conventional market reference, not a conventional loan quote.
Estimate seeded at the low end of Fannie Mae’s published range (0.58%–1.86% a year); the insurer prices the actual premium on the score and the leverage. Applies only above 80% loan-to-value.
Illustrative starting assumptions: a $350,000 price, the first-time buyer’s minimum down payment, a thirty-year term at the current Freddie Mac benchmark, mortgage insurance at the low end of Fannie Mae’s published range, and property taxes and insurance estimated at typical national rates. Every field is editable.
Illustrative estimate only — not a Loan Estimate, approval, quote, or commitment to lend. The rate field carries the weekly Freddie Mac thirty-year conventional benchmark, a market reference and not a conventional loan quote; your rate is set by the lender at lock. The mortgage insurance figure is an editable estimate seeded from Fannie Mae’s published typical range, not a premium quote; the insurer prices the actual premium, and the cancellation month assumes scheduled payments with no extra principal and no change in value. Taxes, insurance and dues are editable estimates; closing costs are not included. Conforming loan limits apply by county. Licensed in sixteen states for consumer mortgages.
| Factor | Buy Now With PMI | Wait for a Bigger Down Payment |
|---|---|---|
| Leverage | Up to 97% or 95% LTV | 80% LTV or lower |
| Mortgage insurance | Required above 80% LTV | Not required at 80% or lower |
| Credit floor | 620 decision score at wholesale | Same floor, better file options |
| Occupancy | Principal residence for top leverage | Same rules apply |
| Documentation | Full file, gift letter if gifted | Same, plus savings history |
| Cash left after closing | Usually more | Usually less |
| Exposure while you wait | Little | Price and rent changes |
LTV means loan-to-value: the loan divided by the home’s value. Those leverage and credit figures are subject to lender guidelines and full file review. Nothing here is a commitment to lend.
What PMI Actually Is (and Isn’t)
PMI is insurance on a conventional loan, and it protects the lender, not you. The federal consumer-finance regulator says you may have to buy it when your down payment is under 20% of the purchase price. The cost can land in the monthly payment, at closing, or both.
Twenty percent is not a minimum to get a conventional loan. It is the line where the insurance requirement stops. Fannie Mae’s Selling Guide requires mortgage insurance on a conventional first mortgage above 80% LTV, unless the lender uses another approved credit enhancement. That is an agency rule, not a lender whim. Terms depend on the lender’s guidelines, the property type, the leverage, and a full review of the credit profile.
Across the wholesale programs Lendmire places files with, the envelope looks like this. A one-unit principal residence with a fixed rate can go to 97% LTV (3% down) when at least one borrower is a first-time buyer, meaning no ownership interest in a residence in the previous three years. Otherwise the standard purchase limit is 95% LTV (5% down). Two- to four-unit principal residences go to 95%. Occupancy changes the answer. A second home tops out at 90%, and investment property sits lower still. The exact numbers vary by lender and program and follow a full review of property, leverage, and credit.
Published typical annual premiums run 0.58% to 1.86% of the loan balance. That is a range, not a quote. Your credit score, down payment tier, and loan size drive where you land.
If you want the program details, Lendmire’s conventional loan programs page lays out the options.
How PMI Ends
PMI is not forever on a borrower-paid conventional loan. Several paths end it.
1. You request cancellation. You can ask when the balance reaches 80% of the home’s original value. You need a good payment history and no subordinate liens (second loans against the home). The lender can also require proof the value has not dropped.
2. The servicer terminates it automatically. The servicer, the company that collects your payments, must drop it at 78% of original value on the initial schedule, as long as you are current. The federal consumer-finance regulator’s Homeowners Protection Act manual describes both rules.
Three misunderstandings come up constantly.
- Automatic termination runs on the original schedule. Extra principal payments do not move that date. They can help you reach the 80% request point sooner.
- Cancellation does not require a refinance. You ask your servicer, in writing.
- Lender-paid mortgage insurance is a different animal. The same manual says the borrower cannot cancel it, and it usually carries a higher interest rate. It is a consequence of choosing that structure, not a feature of PMI.
Servicing mistakes happen. The CFPB has found premiums collected past the termination date. Track your dates and send your request in writing.
When Buying Now With PMI Is the Better Fit
Buying now wins when waiting costs more than the insurance. PMI is a visible line item. The cost of waiting is easy to miss, so put both on one ledger.
Consider a buyer with stable income, solid credit, and several months of expenses left in the bank after closing. Say the savings runway to a 20% down payment is long. Every month of waiting means another month of rent that builds no equity. The home’s price can drift up while the target moves away from you. Buying with PMI turns those rent payments into equity starting now. Final terms depend on the lender’s guidelines, the property type, and the borrower’s complete credit picture.
Buying now tends to fit when:
- Reaching 20% would take years at your current pace.
- Putting 20% down would drain your emergency cash.
- You plan to stay long enough for PMI to reach its cancellation point.
- Your credit is strong, since that drives the insurance cost down.
- A first-time buyer program offers up to 97% LTV and lets a gift cover the down payment. Each figure is subject to lender guidelines and a complete review of property type, leverage, and credit.
That last point matters. On a one-unit principal residence above 80% LTV, no minimum contribution from your own funds is required under Fannie Mae’s gift rules, so a documented gift can cover the whole amount. Two- to four-unit homes need 5% from your own funds. Seller or other interested-party money cannot be the down payment. Leverage, reserves, and pricing vary by lender and program; the final terms follow the full file review.
Here is the honest risk. A thin cash cushion is the real danger of buying at 95% or 97% leverage, not PMI itself. A job loss or a big repair hits harder when the down payment took your last dollar. This is a genuine judgment call, and the strongest buying-now case includes reserves. Terms vary by lender guidelines, property type, leverage, credit profile, and full file review.
When Waiting for a Bigger Down Payment Is the Better Fit
Waiting wins when you are close to the line or your cash position is shaky. Crossing to 80% LTV removes the mortgage insurance requirement entirely, and a lower balance generally improves pricing adjustments, which set the cost of a loan by credit score and LTV.
Waiting tends to fit when:
- You are within a short stretch of 20% and your savings pace is steady.
- Buying now would leave you with almost no cash after closing.
- Your credit score is on the low side. A few months of improving it can lower the insurance cost and widen your options.
- Your income or job feels uncertain, and a bigger payment would strain the budget.
- A windfall, such as a bonus or a sale of an asset, is coming soon.
A larger down payment also guards against appraisal trouble. For a purchase, the lender uses the lower of the price or the appraised value. A low appraisal pushes LTV up and can bring PMI back, or raise the cash you need to avoid it.
Waiting has its own hazards. Savings stall. Home prices can rise while you save. Rent keeps going out. Keep the plan honest: if your savings have stalled for a year, the 20% goal may be a moving target.
The Middle Path
You do not have to choose between the minimum and 20%. Putting down more than the minimum without hitting 20% can still move you into a better leverage tier. Less leverage generally means less insurance cost, and it gets you to the cancellation point sooner. Compare a few down payment levels on a Loan Estimate before you decide.
A Break-Even Method You Can Run
Do the comparison on paper with your own numbers. Don’t trust a stranger’s example.
1. Estimate months to save. Divide the gap between today’s savings and your down payment target by your monthly saving pace.
2. Add the rent you will pay during those months. That money buys no equity.
3. Add the price drift risk. Ask what happens to your target if prices move up or down while you save.
4. Estimate PMI months. Count how long until your balance reaches 80% of original value, then subtract any early-payoff or appreciation help.
5. Compare. If the PMI you would pay is smaller than rent plus drift over the waiting time, buying now tends to win. If you are only a few months from your target, waiting tends to win.
6. Test your reserves. If buying now leaves you with too little cash, waiting wins no matter what the math says.
That sixth step is the one most comparisons skip. The real reason to wait is often thin cash, not the 20% line.
Three Buyer Profiles
Stable and reserved. Steady job, good credit, strong reserves, years of saving ahead. Buying now with PMI fits. The verdict flips if the savings runway shrinks to a few months.
Stretched and thin. Decent income, but buying would use nearly all savings. Waiting fits. It flips if a gift or windfall rebuilds the cushion.
Close to the line. A short gap to 80% LTV. Waiting usually fits, since you skip PMI altogether. It flips if prices are rising faster than you save.
Key Terms Defined
PMI: private mortgage insurance, a policy on a conventional loan that protects the lender when your down payment is under 20%.
LTV: loan-to-value, the loan amount divided by the home’s value.
Automatic termination: the point at which the servicer must drop PMI, at 78% of original value on the initial schedule.
Lender-paid mortgage insurance: a structure where the lender covers the insurance, usually in exchange for a higher interest rate, and the borrower cannot cancel it.
Reserves: cash you still have after closing.
The Balanced Verdict
Neither path is the default winner. Buying now suits people with stable income, good credit, and cash left over, especially when saving would take years. Waiting suits people near 20% or whose reserves would run thin. The key variables are savings pace, rent paid in the meantime, price movement, and your planned length of stay. Change any one and the answer can flip.
If you are buying a home and want to see whether a conventional loan fits your file, Lendmire can help you compare the options and what each one asks of the file.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need 20% down for a conventional loan?
No. Twenty percent is where the insurance requirement ends, not a minimum. A one-unit principal residence with a fixed rate can go to 97% LTV for a first-time buyer and 95% otherwise, subject to lender guidelines and full file review.
Is PMI permanent?
Not on a borrower-paid conventional loan. You can request cancellation at 80% of original value with a good payment history, and the servicer must end it automatically at 78%. Lender-paid mortgage insurance works differently and cannot be cancelled by the borrower.
Can I remove PMI early?
Yes, by request once your balance reaches 80% of original value and you meet the conditions. Extra principal payments can get you there sooner. They do not change the automatic termination date. Send your request in writing and expect a possible value check.
Is a gift allowed to cover my down payment?
Often, with a signed donor letter. On a one-unit principal residence above 80% LTV, a gift can cover the whole amount. On two- to four-unit homes, 5% must come from your own funds. Seller and other interested-party money does not qualify.
Does a low appraisal change the PMI picture?
Yes, it can. A purchase uses the lower of the price or the appraised value, so a low appraisal raises LTV. That can bring PMI back or increase the cash you need to avoid it.
For your own numbers, request a scenario review with Lendmire.
About Lendmire
Lendmire (NMLS# 2371349) is a mortgage broker licensed for consumer lending in 16 states. Lendmire arranges FHA, VA, conventional and jumbo purchase and refinance loans through wholesale lenders; every file is underwritten by the lender under the applicable program guidelines. Scotsman Guide named Lendmire a Top Mortgage Workplace in both 2025 and 2026.
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References
1. CFPB
2. Fannie Mae Selling Guide B7-1-01
3. CFPB – HPA Examination Manual
4. Fannie Mae Selling Guide B3-4.3-04
This article is part of Lendmire’s conventional loan program — full qualification details, guidelines, and scenarios live on the program page.
Related reading: How Much a Small Down Payment Conventional Loan Costs on a Second Home · How Much a Conventional Loan Refinance Can Lower the Payment · How Much More Down Changes PMI on a 2-4 Unit Conventional Loan
Brandon Miller
Founder & CEO, Mortgage Loan Originator, Lendmire LLC
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Legal disclosures. Lendmire (NMLS# 2371349) is a state-licensed mortgage brokerage that arranges financing through wholesale lender relationships. Lendmire is not a direct lender, depository institution, or registered financial advisor. The discussion above is general informational content about real estate financing — it is not financial, legal, or tax advice, and readers should consult licensed professionals for guidance on their individual circumstances. Loan inquiries are subject to lender underwriting; this article does not represent a commitment to lend. Loan terms, rates, and qualification standards vary by borrower, property, and state, and are subject to change at any time. Equal Housing Opportunity. NMLS Consumer Access: nmlsconsumeraccess.org.